Dry and Itchy Scalp Remedies That Work

Forgive me for not posting for a bit, it's been a hectic week! Hurricane Sandy really devastate NYC, and while my area in Queens doesn't have terrible damage, I've had to check on family in nearby New Jersey and Staten Island by renting a car (which was hell in itself), while working from home all week because my office in Manhattan had no electricity. Hope all our YAIS readers faired through the storm ok! Luckily everyone is good on my end, and I'm trying to get everything back to normal. One of those things is washing my hair today and getting my scalp back to normal because as I type, it is on fire! It's been itching and flaking like you won't believe, which always seems to happen when the weather changes, so I'm revisiting some treatments that have worked for me in the past that I thought to share!

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

Diluted in water, this treatment has always been tried and true for me. After washing and conditioning my hair, I use the mixture (about 1/4 cup to 2 cups of water) as a final rinse. It results to a soothed scalp and shiny hair with no lingering scent. I used to do this once a week in the winter especially and had no scalp issues for the entire season.

Bentonite Clay

I consider myself a veteran user of this. I actually make a clay mask once a week for my combination skin type, and I've blogged before how awesome it is for hair. I definitely have focused on my scalp when applying the clay to my hair and it really helps - I actually use apple cider vinegar and raw honey in my mixture which leaves my scalp and hair feeling and looking great!

Tea Tree Oil

This oil is magic in a bottle for me. I used to have severe eczema flair-ups when I was younger and my diluted tea tree oil was applied to my skin to clear it up. You really only need a little bit of this stuff because using too much can cause irritation. When I wore my hair straight or wanted a style to last a while but my scalp was itching, I would take a cotton swap with a diluted tea tree oil mixture and dab it on my scalp to cool it off and stop the flaking.

What are you some of your tried-and-true dry scalp treatments?

What To Do When You Don't Know What To Do With Your TWA

1. Try accessorizing! Jazz your hair up with a cute accesory like a headband or decorative clip... don't go too crazy if you're over 18 so you won't end up looking 12, lol
2. If that fails, Jazz up yourself! It could be the perfect day for effortless messy hair, a red lip, and your favorite ghetto girl hoops, lol
3. Hats, Scarves & Turbans, oh my! Slouchy Beanie's are my ultimate favorite for my natural hair, and I can easily wear my satin bonnet underneath, but turbans and any head wrap of your choice can also be a beautiful alternative
4. Wigs! If you're going natural, a natural wig might be one of the easiest things to keep on hand... Just throw on ya fro' and walk out the do'! (door... tryna rhyme... sorry, lol) Just think of it as a hairy hat if you're not a wig person :)
5. Wash and Go! Sometimes we try styling or re-styling and it doesn't work... when all else fails I just wash my hair and wear it in it's natural state... it' a lot easier than fighting with it. Get those diffusers out for the winter so you dont have to walk out with a wet head.

I hope these tips were helpful and you all continue to employ them along your journey!

Quick TWA & Up Updo!

I did an updo on a failed braidout this morning in preparation to go to an event this morning. I thought it was really cute when I did it but got over it and put my hair in my trusty two buns before I left the house. Luckily for you all, I snapped a few pics before the style went bye bye, lol

I didn't plan to do this, i just had a few bobby pins by my side, my soft bristle brush and some Murrays Cream beeswax... started by separating out the front section (as you can see I did not part anything), doing a roll going backwards and pinning.
I then french rolled up the back while pinning, and at the top, folded it back towards the french roll and tucking it under, creating another hump. Tighten, pin, loosen to your liking, leave out a few curls if it tickles your fancy, and Voila!

This should work if your hair is at least 5 inches or longer, you may just need to tweak everything a little :) This is also a great protective style because your ends are all tucked away.

 Even great for transitioners to tuck away those straight ends.
Here's a link to another rendition of this same style I did a few months ago on my shorter hair.

 Good luck and have fun styling!

   

(excuse the messy room : )

Would anyone wear this style?!

Combating Breakage in Dry Desert Climates

 I recently came back from the west coast for a work trip, spending a week in Los Angeles and 2 days in Las Vegas. A few posts ago I had mentioned how ever since my hair's been long enough to go into ponytails, that's exactly what's been happening with it... I had been moisturizing daily and making sure to tuck my ends under whenever I did little buns, but one day while removing my ponytail holders, I saw a few broken strands of hair and totally freaked out!!! I knew it wasn't the ponytail holders because I got some new ones I really love that don't snag my hair at all. I knew my hair had been feeling dry with all of the dry desert heat, visits to the pool, and tanning, but I never thought it would start breaking. All I could think of was all of my hard work, feeling like I've been working for it forever and then watching it going down the drain.
Immediately, with my small resources (seeing as how I wasn't home I didnt have everything I needed) I began putting together a concoction of what would be the deepest conditioner possible at the time... A mix of whatever conditioners were on hand, and some Palmers Cocoa Butter Body oil. Thank goodness it worked! I started mixing the oil into my conditioner every time I washed my hair, and left a good amount of conditioner and oil in my hair afterwards too. I'm so glad I've come this far in my haircare to understand that what I saw was breakage, and to have had an idea of how to combat it.

How have you dealt with your hair under different climate circumstances?

Stretching Your Hair Without Direct Heat

A lot of us who are natural and have very curly/coily hair have to deal with the single-strand knots, shrinkage, tangles, frizz, and even matting. It comes with the territory of having textured tresses. We can minimize tangles, knots and shrinkage by way of "stretching" our hair out.Check the links for some of our favorite ways to stretch out our hair:
Twist outs
Braid Outs
Rollersets
Bantu knots

Before stretching your hair, be sure to de-tangle well. Whether it's with a wide-tooth comb, denman brush, or your fingers be sure to start from bottom to top with water and/or a conditioner.

What's your favorite way to stretch your curls/coils? Let us know!

EDIT: I forgot about a big one: BANDING ! SP has used it quite a few times for her TWA. Have any of you tried?

Reader Question: Transitioner Learning how to Style

Sietta (Not Pictured Above) said...

I'm looking to transition from wearing sew-ins to wearing my own natural hair again, but I'm lost about how to go about styling it :( I haven't worn my own hair for more than a week in almost 5 years and I don't have a perm so as you could imagine it is very difficult to work with at this point and I am concerned about styles because of this. Also, my coils are SUPER tight and idk what to do with them at this point because my hair has never been this untrained so I know I have a job ahead of me lol. Do you have any suggestions for styles until I can get my coils to loosen a little?

Hi Sietta, 
Thanks for asking and we're glad to help =)
For starts, I would say it'll be a little hard without a few extra details (Hair length? What look you would like to achieve? What do you mean by trained hair and coil loosening?)but I will give you the best advice possible for anyone in your situation or anyone who needs help learning their new texture and how to care for it.

Part 1 - Moisturize, Detangle & Stretch!!!
As a professional hair stylist, time and time again I've seen women trying to go natural after wearing weaves for quite some time, but feeling discouraged about their "rough, dry, hard" manes. They think they have this horrible texture of hair because it is usually dry and malnourished, and because of this, their hair may also be a lot more shriveled and shrunked up.

Start with a spritzer bottle with water, get some of your favorite slippery conditioner, take your hair in one section at a time, moisturize, detangle from the ends up, and either braid, twist, bun or band the little section to keep the moisture in and your hair from shrinking up again (You can also do this in the shower if it's easier/faster for you). 

Part 2 - Washing
Don't be afraid, moisture and water are your best friends :)
After detangling and moisturizing it should be much easier to deal with your hair now, and if you have a lot of hair you may want to leave it in those sections during your wash. If/when I wash in sections, I will bring a few hair clips in the shower with me so as I wash one section at a time, I can twist and pin it back up so it stays stretched and detangled and I won't need to comb through my hair again....or at least bring a scrunchie to throw it all in a ponytail.

Part 3 - Styling
When it comes to styling natural hair, it's all about knowing the look you're going for, and understanding what your hair will and won't do. Henna and other natural products like coconut milk have been known to cause a little curl loosening, but usually on looser textures. The way we usually go about loosening our curls usually is by way of chemicals or heat damage, as a lot of hairstylists will call burning your curls out "heat training." Know that this is not an accurate method (not a method at all) ladies.

I love the curly look and my hair is curly but shrinks A LOT so I live in twist outs as it lets me have the look of my own curls, minus all the shrinkage. Doing twist-outs, braid-outs, banding, or any other kind of Set that will stretch the hair, should help with your feeling of wanting to loosen your curls. When I want a curlier, froey-er twist out I will do it on wet hair or re-twist an old twist out, and if I'd like my hair to be a little silkier, I'll first rollerset my hair and do my twist out on that. 

Here are some links to help you along your journey:
Tips For Naturals
Creating Textures
Creating a Regimen

I hope this helped, and please, don't ever feel like your options are limited, And Haircare above all else!!!

This Week Should Have Been: Banana Clip Week!

 Earlier this week, I posted an easy little Banana clip w/ pompadour up do I had done a few months ago, and Curly Film Chick was inspired and also made her own, super cute banana clipped style. I too had been inspired and decided to wear my hair up in a banana clip!

I did the two braids in the front to give my thin/fine/fragile edges a break (minimal protective styling), as I can leave them in as a headband and style around them, not having to constantly manipulate the hair in my hairline/edges. The braids in the front are also great at keeping the front of your hair looking neat and frizz free with out having to manipulate the hair with brushing and pulling to to slick it back.
I was rocking a twist out I had done on hair that had been twisted and banded to stretch after washing, and decided to put it up with a Banana Clip. Using a banana clip is always a favorite and easy go to because they fit all of my hair, aren't too tight, and won't completely ruin whatever "set" I had done to my hair. Wearing a twist out with braids in the front, I was able to easily go from the banana clipped hair style, to this:

Think of options like these for all of you ladies who need the ease of changing your hair from day to night in a cinch. Also for you ladies who feel stuck with limited options, think of little, low manipulation ways to be able to easily switch your style up for the week. In one week we've shown you 3 different Banana clipped hair styles at 3 different lengths, and all are totally adaptable!

Any of you try rocking a Banana Clip this week? Have a super versatile style you like to share? We'd love to see it too... Please send any style ideas to yais.nyc@gmail.com so we can share them too!

The Ultimate Leave-in: Water

I forgot to mention that I had to re-washed my hair Monday night when I did my pompadour style (which I'm rocking again today, I love it!) because it felt a little dry and it looked a bit dull. I wondered if it was just one of those time when I put too much product in my hair.

So I re-washed with Yes To Cucumbers, conditioned with Pantene Pro-V Dry to Moisturized Conditioner and rinsed it all out. While my hair was wet I sealed my strands with some Vatika Oil, then added some Eco Styler Gel and loosely braided my hair in four plaits. My hair felt (and still feels) soft and shiny, curls are mostly defined, and best of all, still moisturized!

Lesson of the day: Water is a natural's friend!

Long TWA Style: Banana Clip Up-do with Twisted Pompadour

In my latest efforts to make sure to hold my TWA ladies down, I decided to look back through my computer to see what I hadn't posted over these pasts TWA months when I came across and remembered this super cute style.
I wore this to work when I was still interning at Wilhelmina and they were in love with my hair that day!
How did I achieve this style?

• My hair was banded overnight in 2 ponytails after washing, to dry and stretch my curls. 
• In the morning, I unbanded my hair, parted and separated out the section I wanted to use as a pompadour, and proceeded to apply Eco Styler gel and brush the edges and the sides back.
• Next, I put in my banana clip. The easiest way to get all your hair in, is to gather and hold all of your hair as if you were going to use a scrunchie to put it in a ponytail, then put in one side, then bring around the other and snap closed.
• I then took my pompadour section, added a little eco styler gel for shine and to tame frizz. I stretched the section of hair to the side and proceeded to to do a loose 2-strand flat twist.
• I tucked the end of it under and inside of the pompadour, pinned to my liking, and voila! Style! lol
•  It's also a style I really love because you can always easily wear it again, Just remove the banana clip when you come home, tie it down to sleep, and replace your banana clip the next day! Simple as Pie!

This style is perfect for going out, formal or not. You can embellish the sides of your banana clip puff or add an accent to your pomadour for a formal occasion. You can rock a smooth look to the office or go to your job interview in style.
This style can be worn to the club for a fuss free night, or (as it kind of was in high school for me) an easy every day go to style.
I would say it takes about 5-7 minutes to achieve this style and it's a great way to fake it until you make it for us short haired ladies, as a banana clip always makes my hair seem fuller and longer. I use the Goody banana clips (large ones) and they haven't failed me through out the years, plus they don't break easily.

So Long TWA Ladies, would you rock this style? Would you say this would be a Formal, Casual, or Go- to style for you?

I hope this helps!
(My hair was between 4 and 6 inches long for this style)

Between the TWA

Hello all of my beautiful YAIS readers!
I think we've all pretty much established that I (SPstyles) am the TWA blogger on here and Curly Film Chic is the long/full  hair blogger. We didn't plan for it to be that way, as we are two high school friends who just one day decided to start a natural hair blog together, but I guess it totally works, lol.
Anyway, I always wondered why all of my TWA posts got so much attention when they were posts I wasn't particularly excited about... all because I was all too eager to get away from my TWA. The other day I decided to send my most recent TWA post to Curly Nikki, as I thought the feelings evoked from the post here on the blog, might translate to a wider audience, and it did! One of the readers left a comment that totally opened my eyes to a little more of what's needed here in the TWA world, In Between TWA posts! Reader Comment:
"It is soo nice to see someone on here in the same awkward stage that I am in. Though the long glossy meins are great inpiration, I sometimes feel that there could be more catered for up neck lenght girls. Maybe it should be you. Post some more."

And that is just what I plan to do!!! TWA ladies, I, SPstyles have taken a vow to hold you down for as long as I still have this in-beTWA! Lol I'm a hairstylist so please utilize me! I would love to be able to try out and come up with new methods for us In-beTWA-er's! (eew. ugly word play, lol)

Have any Ideas for TWA Hairstyles you've been thinking of and just don't know how to execute? Any Questions concerning anything... Please let me know what you all need, as I'd love to be able to cater my posts and videos to those topics


nothing? really?

Are Your Products Actually Moisturizing? Shiny Hair Does Not Necessarily Mean Moisturized Hair

I would say I commend myself for keeping shiny hair although my hair naturally can be anything less than lustrious at times. I have so many people stop me and ask me how I get my hair so shiny, with the famous question "What do you use? Oil Sheen?" Definitely not.
I feel so lucky to have found this community that has helped me to learn the truth about our hair and the products we use in it and why. As a hairstylist, there has been countless times where a girl would come to get her hair done and it would be dry, hard and brittle, but greasy or oily at the same time. Adding layers of grease to already dry hair does nothing but clog the pores, weigh the hair down and make it greasy, and make the hair dirtier faster. Now I'm no scientist so I'm going to break this down in laymens terms...

Moisturizing in 3 Steps:
Part 1 -  Water & Washing your hair ~ When your body feels dehydrated, you drink water, so why not give your hair water when it's thirsty? Water is the first part of moisturizing, so if your hair's feeling dry and brittle , it may need some water. If your regimen is one that is low maintanence with washing, make sure you're still adding water to your hair, i.e. via a spritz bottle before retwisting or rebraiding.

Part 2 - Moisturizing ~ Add a moisturizer of some sort. I like cream moisturizers and leave-in conditioners personally, but I will occasionally use a regular conditioner as a leave in or sometimes just a light oil like coconut or jojoba oil.

Part 3 - Sealing ~ You know that feeling you get when you come out of the shower and you dont put any moisturizer on and you feel like your skin is about to crack... maybe it does ::chapped lips for example:: Moisturizing really seals in the moisture our skin just soaked up from the water in the shower... Same scenario for your hair. Moisturizers will dry out quickly if not sealed in with anything. A few of my favorite sealers would be Jamaican Black Castor oil, Jojoba & Coconut Oils, Shea Butter & Shea Oil, Vitamin E oil, and my latest favorite CHI Deep Brilliance Glisten.

Quick Tips
If you are washing, conditioning, moisturizing and sealing and your hair still feels dry, it's possible your products aren't providing the right amount of moisture for you, or you just may not be applying them correctly or as frequently as needed. Try tweaking your regimen a bit until you find something that works... One thing I used to like to do was read natural hair blogs and watch YouTube videos of people who had hair like mine, doing the same styling, and see what they would use...

*For Transitioners and Newly Transitioned Naturals - Realize that with this new texture involved that your regimen will have to change, as well as your products probably. Don't expect everything you used to use to work for you now. If your old products are still serving you justice, just make sure you adjust to how much more moisture your natural/transitioning hair needs.

* For Naturals - If your natural hair is always feeling dry, there's definitely a huge problem there. Make sure your products contain humectants such as glycerin, propylene glycol, aloe vera, and honey to name a few, which are moisture attracting molecules.

*For the drastically different multi textured hair - Know that with extremely different textures, sometimes we need to not forget to baby our more fragile textures, or add a little more or even a different product to these areas.

I hope this helps someone out there with their dry hair... Feel free to ask any questions :)

Use Your Tools: Bouncing Back From Hair Set-Backs

Fellow YAIS readers, lately my hair (and body) has been showing me signs that I need to take better care of myself. My stress levels have been through the roof and now I've crashed; of course with the crash the damage needs to be assessed, and my hair definitely needs some repair; it's dry and breaking and duller then usual (I miss my natural sheen!) but all isn't lost. My wise and wonderful grandmother gave me some sound advice recently: use your tools. Reach back to what you know to help get yourself back on track. In terms of hair, how do we get back on track?

(Deep) Condition: Condition the tresses for moisture. I've been incredibly lazy for a while about deep conditioning, and I know this can be a bit of a hot topic when it comes to naturals (some don't see a need for it, others swear by it) but some sort of intense treatment after being neglectful is probably useful. I personally think it's more about what you use to deep condition your hair as oppose how long you leave it in. I plan to use a homemade treatment because those have always been good to me in the past.

Low Manipulation: I've always been told a watched pot never boils (or something to that effect) and that applies to hair. Leaving it alone, or just minimizing the amount of daily handling gives it a chance to grow out and recover. There are many low-to-no manipulation hairstyles: braids, twists and twist outs, buns and roller-sets to name a few. My hair is in box braids at the moment, and I will probably do buns all next week. All I want to do is worry about moisturizing my hair instead of styling it.

Eat Healthy: Food is fuel for the body. When you aren't getting enough of something it shows, first in your hair and nails and then everywhere else. Recently my diet has been anything but good and not eating well (or rarely in my case) can effect your concentration and mood. The weather is getting better so it's the perfect time to dive back into eating fruits. I'm also taking a multi-vitamin and drinking green tea to get a little more fuel - I'm not a health expert but this works really well for me.

Lower the Stress: Exercise, breath for ten minutes alone, or take a vacation if you got it like that. Taking care of your body will really take care or your hair. Now that I have crashed I'm exhausted from the lack of sleep. The last two nights I slept a full eight hours! And I'm taking a mini trip out of town this weekend to Massachusetts to visit with my sister. When I get back I plan to go back to the YMCA regularly to run and work out.

So that's what I've been dealing with naturalistas. What have you been up to? What are some useful tools you have to help you bounce back?

From Coco & Creme: Natural Hair Bad Habits

Good morning natural hair enthusiasts!

I was browsing through one of my favorite sites on style Coco & Creme and came across a list of Natural hair Bad Habits.  From that list, I'll tell you that lately I've been so guilty of going to sleep without protecting my hair. I really should get some satin pillow cases, because while I've found my red Egyptian Cotton sheets to be so comfortable to sleep on, my hair has been drier due to my lack of protecting my strands all because I'm either too tired or lazy to remember to "put a scarf on it." Mind you, I have 3 satin scarves AND a bonnet!

So I'm admitting what I'm guilty of, what about you guys? Check the list out and let us know!

Ponytails: From Broccoli Bands to Coated Bands

Last night I was preparing my dinner (curry vegetables with garbanzo beans and rice, because you asked) and as I unwrapped a package of fresh broccoli, I took note of the blue rubber band the stalks were held by.

I suddenly remembered that I used to use the rubber bands to put my hair in a pony tail back in the day! I know it's because I always had so much hair, but could never find a suitable ponytail holder that held it all back. Rubber-bands are generally not a good idea because they will rip out your hair. Trust me on this one.

Now I've moved on to banana clips and coated ponytail holders, which don't stress my hair as much or pull it out--for the most part. I really love these satin covered ones I got a while ago but I can't remember where I bought them and am running low.

So today, I have my hair in a ponytail. It seems I've come a long way from stealing bands from produce.

Tips on Curbing Product-Junky-ism

A lot of folks who are "going natural" or just discovering how to care properly care for their hair succumb to being a product junky, where you buy a ton of products to try out. Some might be looking for their "holy grail"--the product that will solve all your curly hair problems. Trying products is obviously a good way to figure out what your hair likes in combination with various techniques. But how can we try products without going flat-broke, overcrowding our cabinets (and perhaps irritating those you live with)? As a former product junky--who was in college at the time I started figuring my hair out--here are some things to keep in mind.

Shopping List: Keep in mind that all these shampoos you are buying don't get used at the same time! You only need one at a time. Might I suggest this list when buying products: 1 shampoo/cleanser, 2 conditioners (detangle, leave-in, deep conditioner), 2 stylers (mousse, gel, "butter") and an oil. I'm just suggesting the maximum of what you could buy, get less if you need to. And this gives you lee-way to play with the combinations of these products (i.e. Conditioner A isn't a good mix with styler Y but great with styler X). Which brings me to my next point...

Use the Products Properly: When using a product, I think it's crucial to use it as directed to achieve the best results as you most likely will be able to judge it better. Also, try the product more then once to get a feel for it. I know that products like Kinky Curly Curling Custard (KCCC) can be difficult to apply because of how it reacts with certain products. It may keep you occupied from buying another product *wink*

Don't Jump On Bandwagons: or rather, be selective as to what advice to follow. Do not continue to use a product that isn't working for your hair just because your "natural hair guru" says it's the best thing ever. Don't follow methods that don't work for you because a natural says that's how it's SUPPOSED to be. Different naturals have different hair and you may or may not get the exact same results. I find it true that you should probably look to those who have a similar "hair type" you have, but you may be like me where you have only come across one other natural who has similar hair to yours (which in my case is a natural at the LITK blog, and who happens to now be free-form locking their hair). Sometimes you can follow the techniques of others who don't have your type of hair but adjust it to your needs.

Learn About ingredients: I've read somewhere that the first five ingredients in a product are used in the highest quantity. So if you like coconut oil, and a product claims to be "fortified" or whatever with it and it's way down there on the ingredient's list, it's probably not worth it. Especially if the product is expensive. It might be best to keep it moving.

Access What Your Hair Needs: Dealing with dryness? Need a good cleanser? Want to do a roller-set or twist out? Buy products that address the issue at hand! If you want a deep conditioner, then search for one and try not to be side-tracked into getting a gel. Trust, it helps it the long run. Focusing on a certain aspect of your hair will keep you pre-occupied.

As a former product junkie myself, I know all too well about the temptations. At this point, I no longer buy products on impulse and it takes me a long time to actually give it a try (see SheaMoisture products). I only shop when I know I need something and if I want to experiment with a style. Hope this was somewhat helpful!

Clarifying Methods

At times, your hair may start feeling a little "gunky" or it may look a little dull. The products you normally use may not seem to work. Your scalp could be itchy and dry; it might just seem overall unmanageable.

 It might be time to clarify to remove product build up from your hair. Here are some methods/products to choose from:

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse: Commonly referred to as "ACV rinse" in the natural world, it's great for the hair and skin. It has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial. I personally used to do this every couple of weeks for the sake of my scalp and to keep my hair shiny--I don't anymore because my hair is colored. Apple Cider Vinegar should be diluted with water because it is very acidic. I loved the results because my hair would be shiny and my curls would pop.

(Reference 1 Reference 2)

Bentonite Clay: I've discussed my experiences with the clay  and have loved it. It is said to remove product build-up and is great for the skin as well. Mixing it is very easy, (just be sure not to use aluminum) and left on for 20 minutes tops. It can used as a shampoo replacement or after shampoo.
(More References here and here)

Brown Sugar Scrub: I personally have never used this method for my scalp, but it sounds interesting. Brown sugar is an exfoliant used in many beauty products (I've used it for my lips); some naturals use it for the scalp. Here's a recipe  for an easy brown sugar scrub.

Clarifying Shampoos: If you're not interested in using any of the above methods, you can just find a clarifying shampoo to use. They generally shouldn't be used very often because it can dry out your hair, and if you have color treated hair it can fade the color faster. Lately I've been using Curls Clarifying Shampoo which works really great so far. My hair doesn't feel dry and stripped and after using it my curls are defined and ready for conditioner.

Have any of you used any of these methods? What are other methods of cleansing/clarifying do you folks use?

Listen To Your Own Hair

I came across this article on Coco & Creme called Five Hair Products Black Women Use That We Should Avoid. The usual suspects are on the list: Mineral Oil, drying alcohols, etc. I read the comments to the article and a lot of folks were saying what I believe is true: do whatever works for you.

I grew up using hair products with mineral oil, hair being wrapped at the ends with beads and rubber bands, slept with cotton bandanas instead of silk scarves and didn't have my hair washed until it was too dirty to handle. I still had a lot hair that was shoulder length and longer. What I know now is that my hair wasn't that healthy, especially my scalp. Avoiding certain products and adhering to natural hair practices like low manipulation and proper use of moisture has made my hair healthier, less drier, and my scalp feeling much better. But I hear some naturals are doing pretty good using those products that I've sworn off. I won't use products with mineral oil at the top of the list because it does not work for my hair. But I also need to shampoo, especially high quality ones and co-washing only doesn't cut it for the sake of my scalp.

I know a lot of naturals who are anti-color because they either feel that the hair is no longer natural or that it will automatically break off or change your curl pattern. I don't really have issues with color in my hair, nor do I think it makes you less natural. I also see no issue with straightening either. Natural hair is versatile and there is not need to feel stigmatized if you want to use heat. If done properly, heat damage can be avoided.

Just remember that when it comes to hair, it's YOUR hair and one size does not fit all. While it's helpful to read blogs and product reviews don't force something that won't work. Remember that part of the journey accepting your natural hair is learning to enjoy it at its various length and stages. So keep out the natural hair police!

Tip of the Day: Trying New Products

The natural hair world is overwhelming at times. So many thoughts, opinions, regiments, products--how can we get through it all? When I first decided to embrace my hair I thought managing it would be expensive and that I had to everything the bloggers told me to in order to get healthy hair, but I still had no understanding of it. I tried countless products and *wished* for my hair to come out well. I did things to my hair whether it was actually helping or not. I wondered what would happen if I read a crash course on what it means to embrace your curls and coils? Here's my tip of the day:

On Products:
There are many, and you may want to try them all especially if someone used it and their hair is fly. When first trying a product make sure that you follow the directions of the product to the letter to determine if it actually works. This may be a combination of technique as well. If, after a few times, it does not work as directed experiment a little. In the end it will help you decide if the product is for you or not.

If the product is expensive and you want to save, be sure to check for samples, get it on sale, or see if anyone else has it lying around. It may take a minute for you to figure out what works for you, especially if you're new. Take you time with the product, have patience and most of all, have fun!



Questions or comments? Email us at yais.nyc@gmail.com

New Hair Goals

In thinking about what to do with my hair, I noticed that I'm always learning something new about it. In 2010 I learned that my hair and scalp thrives on being cleansed with high quality, moisturizing shampoos. I also notice that I have to adjust my regimen according to weather changes because my hair and skin react differently. I've also been pretty good with length retention and haven't experienced much breakage. But what I need to really work on in 2011 is taking care of my ends. I'm thinking of growing all this hair of mine to mid-back length simply so that I can rock really long braids ^___^

Since the trim I got when SP straightened my hair,  I've been paying special attention to them as I freakishly check to make sure that my hair isn't drying and breaking--especially because I have colored strands. I know that there will always be some wear and tare to hair but here are some things to keep in mind to minimize/prevent splits and breakage:

- moisture
- low manipulation
- handling my hair gently
- continuing washing my hair in sections
- strengthening treatments (not entirely sure what those will be yet though!)

I had a wash day this past weekend where I used bentonite clay, air dried in braids and then twisted my hair up. I haven't really been in much of a mood to style my hair (which was definitely a win when I was rocking it straight--easy routine) so I just put in some twists all over my head and have been wearing them pulled back in a ponytail like so

I've been spritzing my hair with a homemade mixture of aloe vera juice, conditioner, water and some coconut oil daily and then I keep it moving. With the really busy schedule I've been keeping lately, low maintenance hair has been awesome!

Healthy You Equals Healthy Hair

For me, embracing my natural hair taught me to become more aware of myself on different levels. Although hair is technically "dead," hair growth and the state of our hair starts with our insides. I remember last Spring when I was getting ready to graduate from college I had a whole laundry list of stress that took a toll on my hair. Besides direct neglect on my part, I wasn't eating well nor was I sleeping much because of the stress I was dealing with. The natural "sheen" to my hair went dim and it was constantly dry and tangled and I experienced some breakage.

I've changed my diet recently to non-meat eating, not for moral reasons but because I simply don't care for eating it at the moment--but better believe that when I crave some carne I will be eating it. Eating meat is actually not bad for our health because it's an excellent source of protein which is of course great for hair growth. I usually ate poultry (chicken) with the occasional red meat saved for when I went to Chipotle or Good Burger (omnomnom). Right now I've occasionally been consuming other sources of protein like fish, dairy and eggs and taking cod liver oil in pill form. (I used to have to drink the liquid as a child, and can't deal with the fishy taste so the pills are easier). Cod Liver Oil has omega-3 fatty acids which are great for hair. It also helps with vision and skin health and the immune system. I take 2 capsules daily.

I've also always been a heavy consumer of veggies, particularly green ones like spinach, broccoli and green beans. They are really easy to cook and great to add to a meal. I don't always eat organic, but I do shop at my local fruit and vegetable stand. Just like caring for your hair, caring for your body doesn't have to be expensive and I live in New York City where everything is pricey and I still more or less live like a "broke college student."